Beneath the bustling streets of Hobart's CBD lies a secret that whispers of a bygone era—a time when Tasmania was a fledgling colony struggling to survive. But here's where it gets fascinating: hidden beneath the 1920s facade of the Bank Arcade on Liverpool Street are the remains of the colony's first merchant store, dating back to 1805. This isn't just any old building; it's the earliest-known European-built structure in Tasmania, a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of its early settlers. And this is the part most people miss—it's not just about the bricks and mortar; it's about the stories etched into its very foundations.
Imagine a time when there were no roads, only pedestrian tracks winding through the hilly landscape. The original timber and brick building, though short-lived, was replaced in 1806 by a more robust stone structure. Its ornate stone window, meticulously carved with vertical grooves to ward off the elements, once stood at street level. Today, it rests two meters below ground, a silent witness to centuries of change. Oriented toward the harbor, it once overlooked a bend in the town's freshwater rivulet, gazing out toward Hunter Island. What remains—the window, an eight-meter-long stone shopfront, a doorframe, a sandstone lintel, and timber beams—is remarkably preserved. And if you dig deeper, you'll find the foundation of the even earlier timber building, a layered history waiting to be uncovered.
But here's where it gets controversial: How did a window end up two meters below ground? The answer lies in Hobart's hilly topography and the city's evolution. In 1811, Governor Macquarie laid out a grid of seven straight streets, paying little heed to the land's natural contours. Over time, the streets were leveled, with dips filled in to accommodate horse-drawn carts. The store, once at street level, was in one such dip, now buried beneath layers of history. This raises a thought-provoking question: How many other fragments of Hobart's early history are hidden beneath our feet, waiting to be rediscovered?
Architectural historian Warwick Oakman points out that until recently, buildings were rarely fully demolished. Instead, new structures were built upon old cellars and foundations. 'I suggest there are a lot more early kernels of Hobart fragmented and built up upon,' he said. This idea challenges us to reconsider how we view urban development—are we building on history, or are we erasing it?
The Bank Arcade itself is a living testament to this layered history. While it now fronts Liverpool Street, its orientation—slightly askew from the surrounding buildings—hints at its older origins. Clues like 1805-era nails and timber beams branded with the name of William Collins, the colony's first harbourmaster and merchant, further confirm its pedigree. 'Some of the timber we've found is among the oldest sawn timber in the country,' said John Short, the building's current owner and custodian. 'It's on a national scale now. You're looking at very few buildings in Sydney that would be older than that.'
Over the centuries, the building grew and transformed under nine successive owners. What began as a humble shingled room evolved into a grand five-story structure, known in the 1860s as Whitesides. Today, it's a bustling shopping thoroughfare, its current layout largely the result of a 1950s renovation. But as shoppers hurry through, they're surrounded by evidence of two centuries of continuous use—a mostly intact 1950s dance hall with a pressed tin ceiling, a small stage, and the remnants of tenants past, from tea rooms to toy stores, even a 'doll hospital.'
For John Short, the building's true heritage lies in the stories of its occupants. 'It's not the edifice building,' he said. 'It's the people who built it, the people who lived in it, the people who worked in it. The building is more a reflection of the people, and not the other way around.' One of his favorite tales is how the building lost its early Georgian facade in 1925 during a retrofit. A tram rattling past allegedly caused enough vibration to bring the entire frontage crashing down—a moment immortalized in The Mercury newspaper.
As Short reflects on his role as caretaker, he hopes to make the building's history more accessible to future generations. 'You're really only someone who is passing through,' he said. 'It's about how you can put something back into the building.' The Bank Arcade will open its doors on November 8 and 9 as part of Open House Hobart, offering a rare glimpse into its storied past. While tours have already booked out, other historically significant sites like Alexandra Battery, Anglesea Barracks, and the underground concourse at Hobart Town Hall will be open to explore.
But here's the question we leave you with: As cities like Hobart continue to grow and evolve, how can we balance progress with preservation? Are we doing enough to uncover and protect the hidden histories beneath our feet? Share your thoughts in the comments—we'd love to hear your perspective.
